Are you traveling to the Grand Canyon, Scenic 12, Kanab, Bryce Canyon or the Grand Staircase? Take the ultimate scenic drive journey down Smoky Mountain Road.
Driving through the remote Smoky Mountain Road of the 1.9-million-acre Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument can be dangerous. This beautiful stretch of road passes through the glorious Kaiparowits Plateau. This is one of the most isolated areas in the United States. Prepare yourself for an amazing adventure with spectacular views, and great picture opportunities!
During the journey you will encounter many wonders!
What is Smoky Mountain Road?
Smoky Mountain road (BLM330) is named after the escaping smoke from the underground burning coal located near Kelly grade.
Smoky Mountain Road is the most remote and challenging dirt road through the Grand Staircase-Escalante Monument. The recreational Smoky Mountain Road runs 78 miles from Highway 12 just west of Escalante and connects to Big Water on US-89. Start on Alvey Wash and Journey up to 1200 feet of elevation and reach the famous top of Kelly grade. Witness the spectacular views off the cliffs of the famous Kaiparowits Plateau.
The Kaiparowits Plateau name comes from the Paiute word Kaiparowits, “Big mountain’s little brother”. The area was populated by the Fremont and Anasazi Indians. Evidence of their culture is still being discovered today.
I journeyed through Smoky Mountain Road on 8/16/2019. The land was mostly dry as it had not rained for some time in the area. I included the GPS coordinates to help guide you through this adventure. My dashcam gives a good picture of how the road and scenery can change rapidly.
Time & Distance
Smoky Mountain Road is 78 miles long and travelers should allow 5 hours to travel one way!
*Note*– If you feel that Smoky Mountain Scenic Byway is too risky, You have the option of taking Cottonwood Canyon Scenic Backway. This scenic backway connects scenic Highway 12 with Route 89. However, the drive is not as dangerous and offers many great views of the grand staircase.
Safety First
Before beginning any of your adventures, make sure you have planned accordingly. Make sure people back home know what your plans are and when you expect to complete your journey. Carry extra clothing, blankets, flashlights, shovels, food, and water for emergencies. Remember that cell phone coverage across the Monument is mostly non-existent. Visiting Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument can be Dangerous.
This adventurous journey should not be underestimated.
During the drive, be on the lookout for animals and falling rocks.
Prepare yourself, one boo-boo and it can be devastating.
Relax and take your time!
Visit the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center for information on current weather and road conditions.
I did encounter a small boulder or large rock in the road near Drip Tank which I had to move. Nothing serious, Nothing heavy. The rock may have fit under the car. However, I was thinking about others such as motorcycles and dirt bikes. This hazard could have potentially caused harm to others.
Quick Check List
1. Full tank of gas & vehicle inspection.
2. Cooler with plenty of drinks and food.
3. Road Conditions – View the National Park Service for current road conditions and vehicle clearance.
4. Weather – Know the current and extended weather forecast.
5. Music Device – Remember no internet service, put some music on a device.
6. Maps – Have a guide map ready as you will lose cell phone coverage. I recommend Geologic Road Guides to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Kane and Garfield Counties, Utah. Publication 29. You will come across side roads. Stick to the main road and you will be fine.
Know the Rocks
Get familiar with the steps of the staircase. You will see many different formations on the journey.
Congratulations, you are now an expert geologist!
Checklist: Sites You May Encounter
Alvey Walsh, Last Chance Creek, Kaiparowits Plateau, Cedar Mountain Formation, Dakota Formation, Straight Cliffs Formation, Morrison Formation, Wahweap Formation, Brushy Basin Member, John Henry Member, Tropic Shale, Bull Run Canyon, Coal Bed Canyon, Calf Canyon, Crosby Canyon, Croton Canyon, Collett Canyon, Dave Canyon, Fifty Mile Mountain, Navajo Mountain, Head of Left Hand Collett Canyon, Horse Spring Canyon, Long Canyon, Rees Canyon, Sarah Ann Canyon, Squaw Canyon, Tibbett Canyon, Trap Canyon, Glen Canyon, Smoky Hollow Canyon, Smokey Hollow, Ship Mountain, Henry Mountain, Smoky Mountain, Kelly Grade, Lake Powell.
My Journey
The journey will start by going through the Morrison formation while nearly skirting the Dakota Formation. The Dakota formation is considered early Late Cretaceous. Another Late Cretaceous formation you will pass is the Straight Cliffs formation which is exposed on the sides of the Kaiparowits Plateau.
Smoky Mountain Road will begin crossing often with Alvey Wash. This will give you a sample of road conditions. The first part of the journey will give you views of many canyons including Coal Bed Canyon. This famous Canyon was used as a coal mine in the later part of the 19th century and the early part of the 20th century. The Shurtz and Christensen mines are located within Coal Bed Canyon.
Rock Formations
As you drive along, some rocks will appear to be objects!
Stay on Path
While traveling along you will come across junctions and decisions to make. Some of the junctions include Death Ridge Road, Collett-Croton Canyon Road, The Heads of the Creek Road, and many other small roads.
Continuing down Smoky Mountain Road you will notice views of canyons opening and closing along the Straight Cliffs, these include Sarah Ann Canyon, Carcass Canyon, Left Hand of Collect Canyon, and many more. The road will continue past cattleman’s cabin toward Last Chance Creek. This creek bares its name as it is the last source of water before crossing the plateau…But you brought your cooler, right?
At the TOP
At the top of Smoky Mountain, Smoky Mountain Road becomes a straight road leading toward the famous Kelly Grade. Before approaching the famous Kelly Grade, you may encounter the smoke burning from smoky mountain. There is an unmarked road a few miles prior to the Kelly Grade approach that leads toward cracks exposing the burning coal.
You will have to travel on a very cold day to witness the coal seam fires of Smoky Mountain.
Kelly Grade
From the 1000-foot-high top of the Kelly Grade offers wondrous views of the Kaiparowits Plateau, Navajo Mountain, Fifty Mile Mountain, Table Cliffs, Boulder Mountain, Bryce Canyon, and Lake Powell. Kelly Grade is known for its famous switchback roads and beautiful scenic views. Take your time and enjoy this stop. Pictures Pictures Pictures.
Drive with caution down the Kelly Grade. The descend is the most challenging part of the journey. The road tightens down Kelly Grade. Don’t worry, the width is still manageable. Approximately a car and a half will make up the width of the road. Drive and witness the ever-changing rock formations and colors.
During the descend on Kelly Grade, Be careful down the switchback road to the bottom.
Finish Line
When you reach the bottom of Kelly Grade, stop and admire the Smoky Mountain. The last part of the journey will lead you back to the city of Big Water. You will drive through domes and small sand dune type hills. Be sure to make one last stop and admire the tropic shale capped by sandstone of the Tibbet Canyon Member of the Straight Cliffs Formation.
Conclusion
The driving experience I had was the most thrilling and exciting I ever felt. On this journey through Smoky Mountain Road, I did not encounter another car or human for the entire road trip! I felt like I was the only person on an unknown planet.
This is a must-drive if you are in Utah and northern Arizona area. The adventure going through the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is one never to forget. The journey provides a great opportunity for views of many different rock formations and colors through the Kaiparowits Plateau. One of the best scenic drives in Utah.
Consider Smoky Mountain Road especially if traveling to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Kelly Grade is not too far from the South Entrance Smoky Mountain road and worth the trip.
If you feel this is too risky, consider other options for backways like Cottonwood Canyon scenic backway. However, I was able to drive through Smoky Mountain Road just fine and I am no professional. For me personally, the most challenging part of the journey was the potential road damage or mud spots when crossing the Alvey Wash on Smoky Mountain Road. The road zig zags with the wash.
When you do travel down Smoky Mountain Road, drop me a line and tell me about your experience. I love to hear from you and your learning journey!
